Hot springs in Yamaguchi: Yuda, Nagato Yumoto, Tawarayama and more

After a day of torii, caves and coastal drives, there is nothing better than a hot spring. Yamaguchi has several onsen towns, each with its own character, and staying at a ryokan with its own baths is one of the best ways to experience the prefecture.

Yuda Onsen

Yuda Onsen is right in Yamaguchi city, a few minutes from the centre by train, which makes it the most convenient hot spring in the prefecture. Legend says a white fox was seen healing its injured leg in the warm water of a temple pond, and white foxes now appear all over town, including a huge statue at the station. There are several free foot baths along the streets, hot spring hotels of every size and plenty of restaurants and bars.

Nagato Yumoto Onsen

The oldest hot spring in Yamaguchi lies in a green valley beside the Otozure River, in the north of the prefecture. The town has been redeveloped with riverside walks, stepping stones, cafés and a public bathhouse, and it makes a lovely base for Motonosumi Shrine and the north coast.

Tawarayama Onsen

Tawarayama, in the hills of Nagato, is a traditional healing spa. Its narrow street is lined with small, old-fashioned inns, and many guests come for long stays to bathe in the soft, alkaline water, said to be good for the skin and for aches and pains. It is quiet and unpretentious.

Kawatana Onsen

In the north of Shimonoseki city, Kawatana Onsen is best known as the birthplace of kawara soba, green tea noodles served on a hot roof tile. Combine a soak with lunch on your way to or from Tsunoshima. Read more in what to eat in Yamaguchi.

Hagi

Several hotels in Hagi have hot spring baths, some with open-air baths looking out over the Sea of Japan.

Onsen etiquette

• Wash and rinse thoroughly at the shower stations before you get into the bath.
• Baths are usually separated by sex, and swimwear is not worn.
• Keep your small towel out of the water; many people fold it on their heads.
• Some baths do not allow tattoos, though rules are relaxing. Ask in advance, or book a private bath.
• Drink water, and do not bathe after drinking a lot of alcohol.

Tips

• Ryokan stays usually include a seasonal dinner and breakfast. In winter, ask about fugu dinners.
• Book early for weekends and holidays. See where to stay.